How to contour and highlight your face shape?

Hello, and welcome to today’s beauty history lesson. (I promise no pop quizzes). Contouring and Baking were not created by your best friend, who is super into making makeup. The drag community developed this technique a decade ago to contour the face with makeup. The mainstream beauty industry has adopted these makeup techniques only in the past few years, so everyone has a smooth look in everyday life.

What’s the purpose of contouring?

Contouring is a way to alter the shape or appearance of your face using makeup. However, it doesn’t need to be drastic. 

What’s the difference between contour and bronzer?

It’s easy to think that two products look almost identical, but they serve different purposes. A contour product is always matt. Contouring creates depth and highlights the angles of your face. To achieve this effect, you need a product with the ability to create shadows (which are not shimmery). Think sunlight and not shadows when using bronzer. Bronzing creates the illusion of warmer skin by blending the product (which usually has a shimmer or sheen) in areas where the sun would hit you: around your nose, temples, and your eyes.

Should the foundation be applied before or after contouring?

The order in which contouring is applied has also changed. You might have used foundation and then added bronzer and highlighter. Nicole now advises first to apply a cream or liquid to highlight your cheekbones, then to blend your foundation on top. Finish with the contour to add dimension.

It sounds strange, but it makes perfect sense. She says that blending foundation over highlighter will allow you to see the skin’s texture rather than a highlight line. Your skin will look natural glowy if you highlight it underneath the foundation.

What are the requirements for contouring?

Nicole suggests that you choose a product three to four shades darker than your skin colour while still keeping within the same family of undertones. Translated: Don’t choose a dark-brown shade if your skin is very pale. Instead, look for one that is three shades darker than your skin. If your skin is more warm-toned, you can use a greyish-brown shade for cooler undertones.

Next, decide whether you want to use a cream- or powder. While this decision is mostly based on personal preference, Nicole recommends considering your skin type and texture when choosing the right formula. Cream contours are best for those with fine lines and dry skin. You could also try brown or taupe lipstick. When applying liquids or cream products, warm your hands with a damp makeup brush and blend them.

How can you contour with powdered?

Use a powder if you have an oily complexion or a matte finish you want. Choose a makeup brush based on your desired look. A blunt bristle brush is best for a chiselled, sharp look. 

The basic steps for contouring with powder are the same. Apply the powder where you want it to be most pigmented. (more details below). Make sweeping movements with your brush to blend the lines and create a natural look. Want to see a demonstration? Ask for a demo, and you will be given:

What are your favourite places to contour your face?

Although I admit that right now is a great time to have an outline of your face, you won’t need it. First, determine where the focus should be and what enhancements you would like to make. After applying your foundation to your face, it might appear a little flat. To create depth, a good place is just below your cheekbones. To define my face, I use a bit of foundation along my hairline and jawline. Others like to apply a bit around my nose and on the sides. Your choice.

Can I contour with no highlighting?

Yes, you can. You can do what you want. Nicole claims that many makeup artists are shifting away from traditional cheekbone highlighting and giving your skin a natural sheen instead. Combine a few drops of foundation with a few drops of your face oil and rub it on your skin to create a seamless, natural highlight.

Do powders go over highlighters or contours?

Yes, Baking is the act of dusting powder on top of your cream makeup. However, this can make it look heavier and more cakeier. Nicole suggests lightly dusting a setting Powder on your forehead and under your eyes to make your cream-based makeup last longer. 

Okay, so how do you contour step-by-step?

Now that contouring is no longer about changing your damn face shape (FINALLY), you don’t have to be a pro to figure it out. Here’s the basic step-by-step—you can follow it loosely and customize it to your face shape.

  • Step 1: Prime your skin with a moisturizer and a makeup primer.
  • Step 2: Apply a cream highlighter on your cheekbones, down your nose, brow bones, and the inner corners of your eyes.
  • Step 3: Mix your foundation with a beauty oil to slightly sheer it out, then blend it across your face with a damp beauty blender.
  • Step 4: To contour, follow the shadows of your *own* face shape. If you feel your jaw isn’t as defined as you’d like, blend some powder or cream along the edges of your jawbone. If you want to chisel your cheeks, blend a contour line beneath your cheekbones. If you love your nose, leave it alone!
  • Step 5: Set your T-zone with setting powder, then mist your face with a setting spray to blend it all.
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